Jamestown/Usshertown, Accra

A weathered fishing quarter full of life, Jamestown, together with the adjoining Usshertown, forms one of the oldest districts of Accra, grown up around two colonial forts on the Atlantic shore. British James Fort and the older Dutch and Danish Ussher Fort gave the area its names, and beneath their walls a dense, close-knit community of Ga fishing families has lived for generations.

Its atmosphere is unmistakable. Brightly painted wooden houses, drying nets, beached canoes and busy harbour activity fill the waterfront, while narrow lanes buzz with markets, workshops and street food. A colonial-era lighthouse rises over the rooftops, and climbing it, where permitted, rewards visitors with a panorama over the harbour and the sprawling city beyond.

Jamestown has also become a centre of creativity. It is famous for its boxing gyms, which have produced champions, and for a vibrant street-art and cultural scene that peaks during the annual Chale Wote arts festival, when murals, performances and crowds transform the streets. This blend of hardship and artistry gives the district a raw, compelling energy.

For visitors, a guided walk is the best approach. Local guides, often young residents, lead tours through the lanes, explaining the history of the forts, the fishing economy and the community's traditions, and the income supports neighbourhood projects. The area is poor and crowded, so sensitivity, permission for photographs and an open attitude are important. Reaching it from central Accra is easy, and it combines naturally with the nearby forts and markets. As a place where colonial history, coastal livelihoods and contemporary art collide, Jamestown offers one of the most vivid and human experiences in the Ghanaian capital. The lighthouse climb, where open, gives the classic vantage over the harbour, and the annual Chale Wote festival is the liveliest time to visit.