Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani

The Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani is the mother-shrine of the Tijaniyya Sufi order, one of the most influential Islamic brotherhoods in Africa. Set in the heart of the Fes el-Bali medina near the Qarawiyyin, it holds the tomb of Ahmad al-Tijani, the order's founder, who settled in Fez and died there in 1815.

The zawiya is a major centre of living devotion. Pilgrims travel from across West Africa, from Senegal, Mali, Nigeria and beyond, to pray at the tomb, and the order's global reach means the shrine has an unusually international congregation for a medina building. Its spiritual importance far exceeds its modest size.

Architecturally it is a gem of Moroccan craftsmanship. The prayer hall and tomb chamber are decorated with intricate zellij tilework, carved and painted cedar, and gleaming brasswork, all lavished on the resting place of a revered saint. Non-Muslim visitors generally cannot enter the sanctuary, but the ornate doorways and the devotional life around them can be observed with respect from the surrounding lane.

The shrine sits amid the densest concentration of monuments in Fez, within a short walk of the Qarawiyyin mosque and university, the Attarine Madrasa and the perfumers' and spice markets. That makes it easy to include on a walking route through the medina's core, ideally with a guide who can explain the Tijaniyya's history and significance. Dress modestly, keep a respectful distance from worshippers at the doorway, and avoid the busiest prayer times if you wish to observe quietly. Even from outside, the steady flow of pilgrims and the glimpses of brilliant tilework through the doors convey the shrine's importance as one of the great centres of Sufi Islam anywhere in the world, and a reminder of Fez's enduring role as a spiritual capital.