Bab Ftouh

Bab Ftouh is one of the principal gates of Fes el-Bali, the ancient walled medina of Fez, guarding the southeastern approach to the old city. A gateway has stood here since the medieval period, and the present monumental arch continues to funnel a constant stream of people, handcarts and mules between the medina and the neighbourhoods beyond the walls.

The gate opens onto a district steeped in history. Just outside lies the vast Bab Ftouh cemetery, one of the largest in Fez, while the surrounding quarter was traditionally home to potters whose kilns supplied the city with the glazed ceramics for which it is famous. That association with craft still lingers in the workshops of the area.

As a working gate rather than a museum, its interest is atmospheric. The broad plaza in front bustles with market activity, taxis and buses, and the arch frames the transition from the dense, car-free lanes of the medina to the more open ground outside. For travellers, it is a natural entry or exit point when exploring the old city on foot.

Bab Ftouh anchors the eastern end of a walk through Fes el-Bali that can take in the tanneries, the great Qarawiyyin mosque and university, and the shrine of Moulay Idris II. From the higher ground near the gate there are broad views across the sea of medina rooftops toward the surrounding hills. There is no entry fee or interior to tour; simply passing beneath the arch and watching the flow of daily life is the experience. Come in the morning when the market and the potters' quarter are most active, wear comfortable shoes for the steep, uneven lanes, and use the gate as a fixed landmark in a medina where it is famously easy to lose your way.