Tourbet el Bey

Tourbet el Bey is the grand royal mausoleum of the Husseinid dynasty, the rulers of Tunis from the early eighteenth century until the mid-twentieth. Set deep in the medina, it was built in the second half of the eighteenth century under Ali Pasha II and expanded over the following decades to become the resting place of beys, princes, ministers and members of the court.

The scale of the complex surprises many visitors. Behind an unassuming medina facade lies a sequence of domed chambers filled with marble tombs, the men's graves crowned with sculpted turbans indicating rank, the women's marked more simply. Italian marble, imported tiles, carved stucco and painted decoration cover the walls and floors, a display of the wealth and European connections of the ruling house.

It is one of the finest interiors in the old city. The soft light falling through the domes onto rows of gleaming tombs gives the mausoleum a serene, almost hushed grandeur, and the craftsmanship rewards close attention, from the delicate tilework to the finely carved marble headstones.

Tourbet el Bey lies among the residential lanes of the medina, a short walk from other historic mansions and the great Zitouna Mosque at the heart of the old town. A modest entry fee is charged, and a caretaker or guide can explain who lies in each chamber and how the dynasty shaped modern Tunisia. Because it is tucked away from the main souks, it is usually calm, a welcome contrast to the busier commercial streets. Come during daylight hours when the domes are naturally lit, dress modestly as at any tomb, and take time to read the turbaned headstones, each a small portrait of rank and status. For anyone interested in the history behind independent Tunisia's monarchy, this is the single most evocative place in the capital.