Üsküdar

Üsküdar spreads along the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, facing the old city across the water at the point where the strait meets the Sea of Marmara. Known in antiquity as Chrysopolis and later as Scutari, it is one of Istanbul's oldest continuously settled districts and remains a conservative, deeply traditional counterpoint to the busier European side.

Its waterfront is a gallery of imperial mosque architecture. The Mihrimah Sultan and Şemsi Pasha mosques, both by the great architect Sinan, stand almost at the ferry landings, while the Yeni Valide and Atik Valide complexes climb the streets behind. Just offshore rises the Maiden's Tower, the small islet lighthouse ringed with legend that has become one of the city's enduring emblems and a favourite photograph.

Daily life here revolves around the ferry piers and the market lanes that fan out from the main square. Tea gardens, pudding shops and simit sellers cluster near the water, religious bookshops and traditional barbers line the alleys, and the call to prayer from a dozen minarets gives the district a distinctly devout rhythm rarely felt in the tourist core across the strait.

For visitors, Üsküdar is best reached by the short ferry from Eminönü or Beşiktaş, a crossing that delivers some of the finest skyline views in the city as gulls trail the boat. From the landing you can walk the shoreline promenade, browse the covered market, sample local puddings and climb toward Çamlıca Hill and its great modern mosque. Streets are steep and cobbled in places, so wear sturdy shoes; the area is budget-friendly, everyday and refreshingly free of souvenir crowds and hard-sell touts. A cluster of pudding shops near the pier serves the city's famous chicken-breast dessert, a quirky local specialty worth trying.