Houhai

Houhai is the largest of a chain of connected lakes ringed by willow-lined banks and old alleyways in central Beijing. Part of the historic Shichahai scenic area northwest of the Forbidden City, it offers a rare stretch of open water and traditional streetscape in the dense heart of the capital, and it has become one of the city's most popular places to relax.

The lakeshore blends the old and the lively. By day, elderly residents fish, practice tai chi and swim in the water, while the surrounding hutong alleys preserve the low grey courtyard houses of old Beijing. By night, the banks transform as bars, cafes and restaurants strung with lights draw crowds to one of the city's best-known nightlife strips.

History surrounds the water. Grand courtyard mansions of former princes and officials, including the celebrated residence of Prince Gong, lie in the lanes nearby, and the Drum and Bell towers rise a short walk to the east, anchoring the area's imperial-era heritage.

Getting around adds to the charm. Rowing boats and, in the frozen depths of winter, ice skating and sledding take over the lake itself, while cycle rickshaws ferry visitors through the maze of surrounding hutongs on guided rounds.

For visitors, Houhai captures a fading side of Beijing. It is reached by subway and lies within walking distance of the Drum Tower and the shopping lane of Nanluoguxiang. The appeal lies in strolling the banks, exploring the alleys and pausing at a lakeside cafe, with the mood shifting from tranquil in the morning to festive after dark. Travelers seeking the texture of the old city alongside its modern leisure culture find it a rewarding stop in any season, and it is especially atmospheric at dusk.