Breithorn

The Breithorn, 4,164 metres, rises on the Swiss-Italian border above Zermatt and is widely known as the most accessible four-thousander in the Alps. A broad snow dome rather than a sharp spire, it makes an ideal introduction to high glaciated peaks for those with the right skills.

Its easy reputation comes from the Klein Matterhorn cable car, which delivers climbers to nearly 3,900 metres and leaves only a short glacier climb to the summit. That convenience has made it perhaps the most-climbed four-thousander in the range, yet it remains a genuine high-altitude mountain that demands respect.

The normal route is graded around F to PD-minus, a straightforward snow ascent up moderate slopes with crevasse hazard the main concern; it is nonetheless a real alpine climb requiring crampons, ice axe, rope and glacier-travel skills, not a walk. The half-traverse and the harder Younggrat and Triftji routes offer steeper challenges for those wanting more. Altitude, whiteout navigation and rapid weather changes are the real dangers on this deceptively simple peak.

The Klein Matterhorn lift from Zermatt gives astonishingly quick access, and many parties climb the Breithorn in a half day, though the thin air catches out the unacclimatised. The season runs from June to September, though the glacier is skied in spring. Zermatt and Cervinia are the valley bases, with guides in both resorts. It is a popular and rewarding first four-thousander, ideally done with a guide for the inexperienced, and its summit gives a stunning close-up of the Matterhorn and the Monte Rosa massif.