Beisi Pagoda

The tallest pagoda south of the Yangtze, Beisi Pagoda, the North Temple Pagoda, soars above the old city of Suzhou from the grounds of Bao'en Temple, a landmark visible from far across the low, canal-laced skyline. Rising nine storeys to around seventy-six metres, its octagonal brick-and-timber form has crowned this corner of the city for centuries and remains one of Suzhou's defining silhouettes.

Its history reaches back deep. A temple is said to have been founded on the site in the Three Kingdoms period, and while the present structure dates in its essentials to the Southern Song dynasty, it carries the weight of that long lineage. Tiered eaves, balconies and a slender finial give it the graceful proportions typical of the pagodas of the Jiangnan region.

The great reward is the climb. Visitors can ascend the internal stairs floor by floor, stepping out onto the encircling balconies for widening views over Suzhou's rooftops, gardens and the ribbon of the ancient canal network. From the upper levels the classical gardens, temple courtyards and distant modern towers all lay themselves out, making it one of the best vantage points in the historic centre.

For a visit, the pagoda and its temple sit at the northern end of the old town, within walking or cycling distance of the main gardens and the Pingjiang Road canal quarter. Admission is modest, the climb is steep and the stairs narrow, so sensible footwear helps and the ascent is not suited to those with limited mobility. Spring and autumn bring the clearest air and the finest views; combine the pagoda with a stroll through the surrounding lanes for a rounded half-day. Reaching the top rewards the effort with the finest rooftop panorama in the historic centre.