Las Bóvedas

Las Bóvedas are the vaulted chambers built into Cartagena's city walls, a row of arched colonial dungeons that today house one of the old city's most popular craft markets. Set against the massive ramparts on the seaward side, they are a striking blend of military history and lively commerce.

The vaults date from the late eighteenth century, among the last structures added to Cartagena's defenses. Twenty-three chambers were carved beneath the thick walls, their arches designed to store munitions and supplies, and their solid construction was meant to withstand bombardment from the sea just beyond.

Their later history is grimmer and then brighter. During the nineteenth-century wars and the republican era, the vaults served as prison cells, earning a dark reputation. In the twentieth century they were restored and repurposed, and their arched openings now shelter shops selling Colombian handicrafts, hammocks, emeralds, coffee, textiles and souvenirs. The name means simply "the vaults," and locals long told stories of prisoners held within earshot of the crashing waves.

Las Bóvedas sit in the northern corner of the walled city, in the elegant San Diego neighborhood, where visitors can climb onto the adjoining ramparts for sea views and sunset. Browsing the craft stalls is a relaxed way to end a walk along the walls, and bargaining is expected. The vaults are within easy reach of the old city's plazas, churches and the Santa Clara quarter, all inside the World Heritage-listed center. The bright arches and thick stone make a memorable photograph, especially in late-afternoon light. Cartagena is warm and humid throughout the year, so the covered vaults offer welcome shade during the heat of the day. The drier season from December to April brings the most comfortable weather for combining the market with a walk atop the historic walls.