Kumano Kodō

The Kumano Kodō is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes threading the forested mountains of the Kii Peninsula toward the three grand shrines of Kumano: Hongū, Hayatama and Nachi. Walked for over a thousand years by emperors, monks and commoners, it is one of only two pilgrimage routes granted UNESCO World Heritage status.

Its spirit is quietly sacred: moss-covered stone paths climb through towering cedar and cypress, past wayside shrines, teahouse ruins and the thundering Nachi waterfall beside its vermilion pagoda. The route shares a dual-pilgrim partnership with the Camino de Santiago in Spain.

On the trail the popular Nakahechi route runs about four to five days between Takijiri and Nachi, linking the shrines over a series of forested passes with village and onsen lodging along the way. Graded moderate, it involves sustained ups and downs on old cobbled paths rather than high altitude; sturdy footing is the main requirement.

Practical notes: no permit is required, and a good bus network lets walkers tackle single sections or the full pilgrimage; the hot-spring village of Yunomine makes a classic overnight. Spring and autumn bring the most comfortable walking and finest colour, while summer is hot and humid under the canopy and typhoons can strike; winter is cool but generally snow-free at these altitudes.