Zuckerhütl

The Zuckerhütl, 3,507 metres, is the highest summit of the Stubai Alps in Tyrol, a glaciated peak whose rounded white cap gives it the name, meaning the little sugarloaf. It rises at the head of the Stubai valley above the well-known glacier ski area.

Surrounded by ice, the Zuckerhütl is the crowning point of a broad glacier basin and a popular high-altitude objective, well placed for climbers acclimatising in the Eastern Alps. Its accessibility and moderate difficulty make it a favourite first big glaciated summit for many Austrian mountaineers.

The normal route from the Hildesheimer hut crosses the Sulzenauferner glacier and climbs a final steep snow-and-rock summit slope, graded around PD, with crevasse hazard on the glacier and a short exposed top section that can require care; crampons, ice axe and glacier rope are required. Ski-mountaineers reach it in spring, and harder mixed lines rise on the surrounding faces. Softening afternoon snow and altitude are the main concerns.

The Hildesheimer and Dresdner huts serve as bases, with the Stubai glacier lift shortening the approach considerably. The reliable season is June to September for summer ascents, with late spring favoured for ski touring across the glacier basin. Neustift im Stubaital is the valley resort, offering guides and gear hire. Sound glacier skills make this an accessible high summit for fit parties, and the top gives a fine panorama across the Stubai and Ötztal glaciers to the higher peaks of the main chain.