Aiguille du Grépon

The Aiguille du Grépon, 3,482 metres, is a jagged granite pinnacle among the Chamonix Aiguilles in the Mont Blanc massif, a classic of Alpine rock climbing that helped shape the sport's history. Its serrated crest is a defining feature of the needles above Chamonix.

Its traverse became famous in the early twentieth century, and the crux Mummery Crack, named for the pioneering climber Albert Mummery who first climbed the peak in 1881, is one of the most storied pitches in the Alps. The Grépon epitomises the sharp, sculpted granite that makes the Chamonix Aiguilles legendary.

This is a rock-climbing objective with no walking route. The classic traverse from the Charmoz links airy pitches graded around D on superb rough granite, with committing exposure and a series of abseils to descend; harder variations reach higher grades for specialists. Climbers need ropes, a rack, abseil skills and the fitness for a long day at altitude. Afternoon storms, cold and the sheer exposure are the main hazards.

The Envers des Aiguilles hut, reached from the Montenvers rack railway above Chamonix, is a common base, as is a start from the Plan de l'Aiguille reached by the Aiguille du Midi cable car. The season runs from July to September, when the granite is dry and warm. Chamonix is the valley base, world-famous for its guides and climbing culture. This is terrain for competent rock alpinists comfortable with exposure and rappelling, and the traverse remains one of the finest and most historic granite outings in the range.