Varasova

A limestone wall above the Gulf of Corinth, Mount Varasova rises steeply from the sea near Nafpaktos in western Greece, its great south face offering some of the country's longest and most impressive multi-pitch climbing on a mountain that dominates the coast for miles.

The rock is grey limestone, and the classic climbing is multi-pitch on the big face, with routes several hundred metres high mixing bolts and traditional gear on vertical to overhanging ground. There are also single-pitch sport sectors at the base for shorter days. Grades run broadly from 5 to hard 8s, with committing mid-grade lines that demand endurance, route-finding and a head for exposure high above the coast, along with efficient rope-work for the descents.

The position is dramatic: the wall drops almost to the shoreline, the Gulf of Corinth spreads below with ferries crossing to the Peloponnese, and the climbing feels genuinely wild despite the road and villages nearby. Approaches to the base of the face can be steep and rough through scrub, and the long routes are serious undertakings that reward an early start and settled weather.

Autumn to spring gives the best conditions, the sunny south face staying warm and dry through winter; summer is too hot on the exposed limestone. Nafpaktos, with its Venetian harbour, and nearby coastal towns provide lodging, tavernas and supplies. Varasova rewards experienced climbers seeking long, adventurous limestone routes in a quiet, spectacular seaside setting far from the crowds of the popular Greek sport crags.