Phu, Nepal

Phu is a remote fortified village at around 4,080 metres at the head of the Nar Phu valley, a cluster of stacked stone houses beneath eroded pinnacles that guard the approach to the Tibetan frontier. The ancient Tashi Lhakhang gompa presides over the settlement, blessed within living memory by a revered lama.

Its fascination lies in how little has changed. The Phu people descend from Khampa traders and herders, and their high, dry world of yaks, chortens and windblown prayer flags feels closer to Tibet than to lowland Nepal. Ruined watchtowers hint at a strategic past on old salt-trading routes.

On the trek Phu is the deepest point of the Nar Phu circuit, roughly seven to ten days from the Annapurna Circuit turnoff at Koto. The walking climbs through a spectacular gorge to Meta and Kyang before the village appears; strong parties continue over the Kang La to Nar and Ngawal. It is moderate to strenuous, with altitude the principal hazard.

Practical notes: entry requires a restricted-area Nar Phu permit and an ACAP permit, plus a licensed guide and a minimum group size. The clear, dry seasons of September to November and April to May are best; the valley's rain-shadow position keeps it walkable even as the monsoon lingers over the main Himalaya.